In fashion design, a wide range of pattern designs has always been the most eye-catching, brilliant colors and colorful patterns to make fashion more charm. Today to introduce these dazzling variety of graphic design.
Garment performance patterns on the main methods of printing and dyeing, hand-painted, braided, embroidery, stitching, patch, etc., which can be subdivided into printing and dyeing process digital printing, offset printing, screen printing, screen printing, batik, tie-dye, etc. . As too many types can not be introduced one by one, today in the current more popular way to illustrate.
Digital printing
Digital printing compared with the traditional printing and dyeing process, the use of dyes in the printing process by the computer “on-demand distribution”, making the printing process, there is no waste of dyes, no waste water, no noise, no pollution, to achieve The green production, so that the textile printing production from the past high energy consumption, high pollution, high noise production process, to achieve a low energy consumption, pollution-free, to the textile printing and dyeing production has brought a technological revolution.
Mention the digital printing, that had to say to Greek designer Mary Katrantzou, her kaleidoscope colorful, colorful pattern design unique in the fashion circle, known as the well-deserved “Queen of printing.”
From St. Martin’s graduation project opening show to today’s London Fashion Week’s hottest, long-awaited fashion show, each of Mary Katrantzou’s work is more like a painting, from the pattern to the fabric selection, and then cut the profile Just right, gorgeous modern, extraordinary refined.
▼Mary Katrantzou 2017 SS
▼Mary Katrantzou 2017 FW
This season’s pattern of expression in addition to digital printing, also used jacquard, mosaic and other practices.
▼Mary Katrantzou 2013 SS
This season will be digital printing and weaving process combined to make the form more flexible.
Qingyang Liu domestic designers also prefer printing, Chictopia each season by her own design printing, but also a major feature of the brand. Mention Chictopia, Qingyang Liu is most proud of printing and fabric. The right fabric to properly reflect the entire profile and design, and fabric colors and patterns to better tell the story behind the expression of the designer’s idea. Distinctive features, eye-catching printing, Chictopia a strong sense of presence so that the brand quickly in the fashion circle become trend.
Splicing and patching
▼Alexander McQueen 2017 FW
This season the splicing and patching process will be used in the pattern design, combined with embroidery, bead embroidery and weaving, making the whole series more dynamic and rich.
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▼Valentino 2016 SS
Valentino 2016 spring and summer, the creative director of Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo Piccioli changed the past romantic gentleness, silhouette thick exotic designs elegant mellow collocation, this season will be used for dyeing technology of pattern design perfect interpretation, offer a visual feast.
Inspired by nature has always been a place in the field of pattern design, designers from the geological landscape, winter snow and other natural landscapes look for inspiration, the nature of the photos taken for segmentation, stitching, combination, forming a new pattern design. Today, designers have not only limited to the graphic pattern, but began to try more fabric texture, more craft to show the rich effect.
Establishment and change of Pants' Mother Type
Establishment and change of Pants’ Mother Type
Pants are clothes that cover the hips and legs between the hips and ankles. They can be fit, loose, curved, straight, bell-bottom, or cone-shaped, as shown in the pants length chart. The length and name of trousers vary with the seasons. Trousers are an indispensable part of women’s clothing, and there are different styles and ways to wear them on various occasions-street wear, sportswear, home wear. evening dress, etc.
In the form of pants, by using structures such as pleated, frills, crotch cloth, bell-bottom and Yoke, the attractive style, pocket, bead embroidery ,embroidery and post flower surface detail also can add to the pants design. In the design of pants, fabric also plays an important role, pants fabric can be from transparent thin fabric to heavy fabric. Choice between woven and knitted fabrics of various fibres. In this unit, many popular styles and variations will be discussed, which will be developed from the prototype pattern of pants.
First, the establishment of Pants’ Mother Type
Specifications: height (number) = 160cm Pants length L = 62cm Hips H = 100cm
Front pieces drawing steps:
1. For the long pants 62cm, determine the level line, side seam, pants long line.
2. To determine the straight crotch depth, from the amount of the upper flat 0.1number + 0.1Hy (female: 1, male: 2) = 0.1x160 + 0.1x100-1 = 25cm draw the horizontal line, this is the exact method, the simple method for the H / 4 = 100/4 = 25cm.
3. determine the hip line, take the straight crotch depth 1/3 draw the horizontal line.
4. Hip is large H / 4 or H / 4-1cm = 24cm.
5. Make sure the front cage door is large = (0.5 / 10) H = 5cm and draw the front inside seam line and front crotch arc.
6 . The suture line is 1 / 2 of the cage door larger than the side seam .
After pieces drawing steps:
1. The horizontal lines are the same as the front pieces.
2. Make sure the hips are H / 4 or H / 4 + 1cm = 26cm.
3. after crotch oblique 15: 2.
4. Make sure the after cage door is large = (0.5 / 10) H = 5cm and draw the after inside seam line and after crotch arc.
5. make sure the after suture line.
Second, Pants’ Mother Type caused by changes
The change of parent shape refers to the change of slope or curvature in the contour of parent shape, which will inevitably lead to the change of the shape of adjacent contour, and has certain regularity.
The change of the Pants’ Mother Type involves the change of side seam and crotch arc.
1, changes caused by side seam changes
Side seam changes are divided into internal oblique change, external oblique change and vertical state of three kinds of vertical state of the vertical line before and after the suture side, that is, the same pant type, before and after the cage door pant type, belts are pants, straight pants one class.
If the side seam for internal oblique change, is adjacent to the crotch arc and the after inside seam line should make corresponding change, abnormal rules as shown. Front and after the side seam with o as the turning point,close to the suture line Change △, then reduce the front door corresponding △, increase the door after △ / 2, belonging to the category of trousers.
If the lateral incision changes diagonally, then the adjacent waist line, mouth line, crotch suture and before and after the suture should be changed accordingly, the variation as shown in the figure before and after the side seam to o as the rotation Point, for leaving the seam line change △ (before and after the film △ equal), then the cage door have to increase 2 △. Belongs to the skirt pants category.
2. The change of the width of the cage door in the straight crotch
Crotch curve change mainly refers to the change of crotch bending potential, a certain crotch curve curve potential will correspond to a certain contour. In the parent pants, if the crotch crotch curve bending potential becomes smaller, it will cause crotch seam. The change of the foot line. The law of change is shown in the diagram. The crotch curve is changed with O as the turning point.
The smaller the crotch curve bending force, the shorter the straight position of the crotch seam, which determines that the shorter the length of the trousers, the more concave and oblique the foot line. To ensure that the length of the original pants remains the same, but also to reduce the crotch crotch curve bending potential. The only way is to draw the crotch seam into an inner arc, and its bending potential is opposite to the crotch curve, and the hip circumference is also increased accordingly.
The transformation increases the range of activities of trousers, suitable for sports pants and underwear. After the transformation, the fit of trousers will be weakened, there will be more wrinkles, not suitable for outer trousers.
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